Every person is different – that’s why each compounded prescription can be specifically tailored for our individual needs.
Topically applied
antioxidants exert
their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals produced when
skin is exposed to ultraviolet light or allowed to age naturally. Appropriate
formulation and use which is supervised by a knowledgeable healthcare
professional will maximize the benefits while minimizing any potential side
effects of these therapies.
Biofactors 1999; 9(2-4):371-8
Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer.Click here to access the PubMed abstract
of this article.
Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone, CoQ10) is an important
antioxidant that is taken to strengthen immune and cardiac function. The
processes of aging and photoaging of the skin (due to sunlight) are associated
with an increase in cellular oxidation, which may occur as the body’s own
levels of CoQ10 decline. A reduction in wrinkle depth was shown following
topical application of CoQ10 0.3% and results indicated that CoQ10 has the
efficacy to prevent many of the detrimental effects of photoaging. Wrinkles
around the region of the eyes (“crow’s feet”) may be reduced by long-term
application of CoQ10.
Z Gerontol Geriatr 1999 Apr; 32(2):83-8
Modulation of oxidative stresses in human aging skinClick here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Vitamin C has been incorporated into a variety of cosmeceuticals designed to protect and rejuvenate photoaged skin. Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester) is a lipid soluble, neutral pH, non-acidic (thus, non-irritating and non-stinging) form of Vitamin C which can reach cells within the skin rapidly in amounts greater than can be achieved by water soluble Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid).
Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul; 31(7 Pt 2):814-7
Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other
dermatologic conditions.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) is a powerful antioxidant and scavenger
with anti-inflammatory properties that promotes optimum efficiency for
production of energy and removal of intracellular waste products, essential for
cellular healing and elimination of wrinkles and facial scars. Twelve weeks of
treatment with a cream containing 5% ALA
improves clinical characteristics related to photoaging of facial skin.
Br J Dermatol. 2003 Oct; 149(4): 841-9
Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy
of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial
skin.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Topical niacinamide 5% (vitamin B3) reduces yellowing,
wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004 Oct; 26(5):231-8.
Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and
hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Topical application of 0.01% estradiol and
0.3% estriol markedly improved elasticity and firmness of the skin, substantially
decreased pore sizes, increased skin moisture, and decreased wrinkle depth.
Eur J Obstet Gynecol Reprod Biol. 2007 Feb; 130(2):202-5.
Effects of topical estradiol on the facial skin collagen of postmenopausal
women under oral hormone therapy: a pilot study.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Int J Dermatol. 1996 Sep; 35(9):669-74.
Treatment of skin aging with topical estrogens.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Topical 2% progesterone increases elasticity and firmness in the skin of
peri- and postmenopausal women.
Br J Dermatol. 2005 Sep; 153(3):626-34.
Effects and side-effects of 2% progesterone cream on the skin of peri- and
postmenopausal women: results from a double-blind, vehicle-controlled,
randomized study.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
DMAE (2-dimethylaminoethanol, deanol), when applied topically to the skin, may improve the appearance of sagging skin, boost the effects of other antioxidants, increase smoothness, reduce fine lines and give facial muscles a leaner look. In a randomized clinical study, 3% DMAE facial gel applied daily for 16 weeks has been shown to be safe and efficacious in the mitigation of forehead lines and periorbital fine wrinkles, and in improving lip shape and fullness and the overall appearance of aging skin.
Br J Dermatol. 2007 Mar;
156(3):433-9.
The antiwrinkle effect of topical concentrated 2-dimethylaminoethanol
involves a vacuolar cytopathology.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005; 6(1):39-47.
The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Antioxidants
such as vitamins E
and C, coenzyme Q10, alpha-lipoic acid, glutathione, and others can reduce
signs of aging.
Acta Dermatovenerol Alp Panonica Adriat. 2008 Jun; 17(2):47-54.
Skin aging.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA)
0.5% and proanthocyanidin (PA) 0.3% administered transdermally in a cosmetic
formulation supplemented with 2% benzyl alcohol as a penetration enhancer,
significantly enhanced collagen synthesis and deposition.
Connect Tissue Res. 2005; 46(4-5):251-7.
Transdermal delivery of amino acids and antioxidants enhance collagen
synthesis: in vivo and in vitro studies.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Topical Application of
Phytonadione, Retinol and Vitamins C and E to Reduce Infraorbital Dark Circles
and Wrinkles of the Lower Eyelids
Infraorbital dark circles and wrinkles of the lower eyelids are cosmetic
problems that worsen with age. Fifty-seven healthy adult volunteers with dark
under-eye circles and wrinkles were enrolled in an open label study to
determine whether a gel containing 2% phytonadione, 0.1% retinol and 0.1%
vitamins C and E is effective in reducing dark under-eye circles and wrinkles
of the lower eyelids. The gel formulation was applied twice daily to the lower
eyelid site for 8 weeks. Hemostasis, pigmentation and wrinkles were evaluated
by a physician and by the patients after 4 and 8 weeks of treatment. Topical
application of the gel decreased not only hemostasis but also wrinkles after 8
weeks of treatment. Of 57 patients, 27 (47%) had reductions in hemostasis. However,
pigmentation was not clearly removed by this gel.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr; 3(2):73-5
The effects of topical application of phytonadione, retinol and vitamins C
and E on infraorbital dark circles and wrinkles of the lower eyelids.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Protection and Reversal of Photodamage with
Topical Antioxidants
Topical vitamins C and E, as well as topical selenium, protect skin against
sunburn, suntan and skin cancer and also reverse the mottled pigmentation and
wrinkles of photoaging. However, only certain forms of these antioxidants are
stable and active after percutaneous absorption. Benefits of topical
application are that the skin attains far higher levels of each antioxidant
than can be achieved by taking these vitamins orally and topical application
arms the skin with a reservoir of antioxidants that cannot be washed or rubbed
off, protecting the skin for several days after application.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Jul; 3(3):149-55
Photodamage of the skin: protection and reversal with topical antioxidants.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Topical application of
niacinamide (such as in a 2% cream) has a stabilizing effect on epidermal
barrier function, seen as a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an
improvement in the moisture content of the horny layer, and it may be used as a
treatment adjunct in atopic dermatitis. In aging skin, topical application of
niacinamide improves the surface structure and pigmentary disorders, smoothes
out wrinkles and inhibits photocarcinogenesis.
Cutis 2006 Jan; 77(1 Suppl):11-6.
Pharmacologic doses of nicotinamide in the treatment of inflammatory skin
conditions: a review. Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Int J Dermatol 2005 Mar; 44(3):197-202.
Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
J Cosmet Dermatol 2004 Apr; 3(2):88-93
Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Niacinamide can be combined with other active ingredients such as DMAE,
sodium hyaluronate, benzoyl peroxide, or metronidazole in a customized
medication that can be used as anti-wrinkle or anti-aging therapy or to treat
acne or rosacea
Br J Dermatol. 2003 Oct; 149(4): 841-9
Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy
of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial
skin.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Estrogen Therapy to Prevent or Reverse Skin Aging
Declining estrogen levels are associated with a variety of cutaneous changes,
many of which can be reversed or improved by topical or systemic estrogen
supplementation. Studies of postmenopausal women indicate that estrogen
deprivation is associated with declining dermal collagen content, diminished
elasticity and skin strength, loss of moisture in the skin, epidermal thinning,
atrophy, fine wrinkling, and impaired wound healing. Keratinocytes, Langerhans'
cells, melanocytes, sebaceous glands, collagen content and the synthesis of
hyaluronic acid are under hormonal influence. Estrogen may attenuate
inflammation in psoriatic lesions. Alone or together with progesterone,
estrogen prevents or reverses skin atrophy, dryness and wrinkles associated
with chronological or photo-aging. Estrogen and progesterone stimulate
proliferation of keratinocytes while estrogen suppresses apoptosis and thus
prevents epidermal atrophy. Estrogen maintains skin moisture by increasing acid
mucopolysaccharide or hyaluronic acid levels in the dermis, and accelerates
cutaneous wound healing.
Low estrogen levels that accompany menopause exacerbate the deleterious effects
of both intrinsic and environmental aging. Estrogens clearly have a key role in
skin aging homeostasis as evidenced by the accelerated decline in skin
appearance seen in the perimenopausal years.
At Yale University School of Medicine, the effects of long-term hormone
replacement therapy (HRT) on skin rigidity and wrinkling at 11 facial locations
was assessed using the Lemperle scale by a plastic surgeon that was blinded to
HRT use. Skin rigidity at the cheek and forehead was measured with a durometer.
Demographics including age, race, sun exposure, sunscreen use, tobacco use, and
skin type were similar. Rigidity was significantly decreased in HRT users
compared to nonusers at both the cheek and forehead. Average wrinkle scores
were lower in hormone users than in nonhormone users. The study concluded that
long-term postmenopausal HRT users have more elastic skin and less severe
wrinkling than women who never used HRT, suggesting that hormone therapy may
have cosmetic benefits.
In another study, the dermal collagen of 15 postmenopausal women who had
received systemic estrogen replacement was analyzed before and after using a
topical 0.01% estrogen treatment. Epithelial and dermal thickness improved after
topical estrogen therapy. Facial skin collagen significantly increased after 16
weeks of treatment. Systemic estrogen levels did not significantly increase
after topical therapy.
Exp Dermatol. 2004; 13 Suppl 4:36-40
Skin aging and sex hormones in women -- clinical perspectives for
intervention by hormone replacement therapy.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Exp Dermatol. 2006 Feb; 15(2):83-94
Biology of estrogens in skin: implications for skin aging.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Eur J Obstet Gynecol Reprod Biol. 2006 Jun 22
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005
Oct; 53(4):555-68; quiz 569-72
Estrogen and skin: the effects of estrogen, menopause, and hormone
replacement therapy on the skin.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Fertil Steril. 2005 Aug; 84(2):285-8
Long-term effects of hormone therapy on skin rigidity and wrinkles.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003; 4(6):371-8
Skin aging and menopause: implications for treatment.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
Am J Clin Dermatol. 2001; 2(3):143-50
Estrogen and skin. An overview.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
J Dermatol Sci. 2005 Apr; 38(1):1-7
Regulatory roles of sex hormones in cutaneous biology and immunology.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
In the following study, the effects of topical 0.01% estradiol and 0.3%
estriol compounds were measured in preclimacteric women with skin aging
symptoms. After treatment for 6 months, elasticity and firmness of the skin had
markedly improved; wrinkle depth and pore sizes had decreased by 61 to 100%;
skin moisture had increased; and wrinkle depth decreased significantly.
Int J Dermatol 1996 Sep; 35(9):669-74
Treatment of skin aging with topical estrogens.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
A low-dose, topical gel form of diclofenac sodium has been developed in Europe for pain relief and reduction of redness after sunburn.
Eur J Dermatol. 2004
Jul-Aug; 14(4):238-46
The efficacy and safety of low-dose diclofenac sodium 0.1% gel for the
symptomatic relief of pain and erythema associated with superficial natural
sunburn.Click here to access the PubMed abstract of
this article.
